什么’s next for 超干 now that 朱利安·邓克顿 has cemented his return?

超干's 板room battle in 2019 resulted in 朱利安·邓克顿 coming back as interim CEO. A leadership 改组 last month saw him become permanent CEO, effectively cementing his return to the fashion retailer he co-founded. 零售公报analyses at how he plans to turn 超干 around.

超干 板room 朱利安·邓克顿 冠状病毒病-19 大流行 封锁 詹姆斯·霍尔德
超干 co-founder 朱利安·邓克顿 holds a 20% stake in the fashion retailer.

超干’卑微的开始可以追溯到2003年,切尔滕纳姆市场的一个摊位设立了朱利安·邓克顿(Julian Dunkerton)和詹姆斯·霍尔德(James Holder)。商人都发现了“huge gap” in the UK men’市场和以融合老式美国风情和日本灵感的图形而闻名的时装零售商,是在 “东京励志之旅”.

超干 is now found in more than 100 countries worldwide –并且得到了大卫·贝克汉姆(David Beckham)和伊德里斯·埃尔巴(Idris Elba)等名人的支持。但是在过去的一年左右的时间里,由于其在时装和在线零售趋势上的落后,它遇到了销售和利润低迷的艰难时期。

在为去年的黑色星期五做准备时,这家零售商报告上半年收入下降了23.3%。下降的原因是在此期间,同类商店的交易下降了32.4%。

超干 板room 朱利安·邓克顿 冠状病毒病-19 大流行 封锁 詹姆斯·霍尔德
大卫·贝克汉姆 wearing a top from 超干 (Image: 脸书)

超干将Covid-19大流行归咎于“disrupting”它的商店和批发渠道受到封锁和分层限制的影响,影响了半年的大部分时间。但是,它发现,由于客户转向在线,电子商务销售额增长了49.8%。–尽管这不能抵消总体下降。

当时,这家时装零售商表示,它将专注于加强在线运营以吸引客户,“让我们的品牌重生”.

As indicated earlier, this was not the first time 超干 posted woeful trading results. In July 2019, it reported a pre-tax loss of £85.4 million, and in September 2020, said profits dropped by a colossal 210 per cent.

对于一个曾经以夹克和连帽衫而闻名的新潮品牌,新的以消费者为导向的时尚世界的严峻现实给人们带来了极大的震惊。

超干 板room 朱利安·邓克顿 冠状病毒病-19 大流行 封锁 詹姆斯·霍尔德
超干 is known for its jackets and hoodies.

超干 is currently in the midst of chartering a new course after a lengthy 板room battle that grabbed headlines in 2019.

这场激烈的争斗使邓克顿(他也持有这家时装零售商的20%的股份)于当年重返临时首席执行官。就在一个月前,他的临时合同于4月到期,他被永久任命为首席执行官。

邓克顿(Dunkerton)于2018年3月卸任首席执行官后,董事会的斗争就开始了。离职后,他在媒体上发起了一场竞选活动,目睹了他批评Superdry高管层管理层及其业务战略,同时不断进行交易更新和迄今为止的盈利警告。从玫瑰色。

这导致他在股东投票中获胜后,于2019年4月戏剧性地重返董事会。自2014年以来一直担任首席执行官的Euan Sutherland在Dunkerton之后被罢免’连任,大多数董事会也辞职。

超干 板room 朱利安·邓克顿 冠状病毒病-19 大流行 封锁 詹姆斯·霍尔德
朱利安·邓克顿 became 超干 CEO on a permanent basis in December.

退任临时首席执行官后,邓克顿取消了Superdry计划中的首批童装系列,并退出了与Pentland品牌的鞋类许可协议。他还说,他希望Superdry专注于以其闻名的夹克和帽衫,并在网络上提供更多种类的产品。

Last December, 超干 underwent a 板room 改组 that cemented Dunkerton’的返回并需要任命新的首席运营官西尔瓦娜·博内罗(Silvana Bonello),以及其董事长彼得·威廉姆斯(Peter Williams)辞职。–他于2019年4月被任命为该角色以协助邓克顿的返回。

“Superdry既不便宜也不敏捷,无法与快速时尚竞争,也不足以与奢侈品竞争”

凯瑟琳·埃德利, founder of retail management consultancy 弹性零售俱乐部, said Dunkerton rejoined 超干 after his frustration at previous management’了解时尚品牌的能力。

“如果他的总体规划真正以将客户与产品重新连接为中心,那将是有道理的,毕竟这首先使业务成功,” she told 零售公报.

“For a long time 超干 was seen as the go-to destination for ‘cool dads’但是,人们可能会争辩说,多年来,该品牌已经失去了相关性,这将是Dunkerton需要努力重建的基础。”

Despite uncertainty around the 大流行, 超干 said it was making good progress with its 战略 and brand reset. Key to revitalising its 回转 is the way 超干 has segmented its shoppers into nine customer profiles based around buying behaviour and trends.

这些已经与品牌结合’四个清晰的消费者风格选择:休闲&年份,精致&最低限度的运动和街头服饰& Energy –所有这些使他们能够为客户提供更好的针对性产品。

Erdly said that with non-essential retail being closed at this time and the outlook for 2021 looking uncertain, all retailers need to focus on their online retail presence. She said 超干 was no different.

“他们有机会从自己舒适的家中以数字方式与客户联系,并且随着实体店的重新开放,他们有机会真正探索客户历年来的发展历程以及整个在线和离线渠道之间的变化,” she explained.

“对数字渠道的任何关注都需要考虑到,它们与商店之间的联系远比许多大街零售商真正重视的程度要大得多。”

“Superdry的策略‘通过数字渠道与客户互动’, is clearly vital”

Retail expert Nelson Blackley said 超干 has been previously criticised for a lack of social engagement, with relatively few followers on Instagram compared with rivals such as Hollister.

商业代理商LiveArea的咨询总监Elliott Jacobs表示同意。他说“there’有很多事情要做”.

“Burberry has 18 million followers on Instagram, Boohoo as seven million. 超干 has 600,000,” Jacobs told 零售公报.

“ 超干的战略‘通过数字渠道与客户互动’显然很重要,但是很晚了。

“Burberry之类的公司在连接社交媒体商店的过程中处于领先地位,并专注于数据和分析,而Boohoo在物流自动化方面的投资吸引了当今的按需消费者。”

Blackley argued that 超干 has not taken advantage of online influencers but was clearly seeking to change things.

The search for change was evident following the appointment of Boohoo’s international director Justin Lodge as new chief marketing officer in September. Lodge was drafted in to spearhead 超干’电子商务和网红营销的发展。

“Superdry计划在2021年推出更多的短期订购产品,以便他们在网上提供更多选择,并以更迅速的方式应对趋势,” Blackley said.

“他们还将在每个季节增加其限量版产品的投放量,发布在线独家新闻以利用趋势,并使用社交媒体帮助建立参与度。”

Erdly补充说,Superdry一直在无法与越来越关注购物的客户建立联系,以反映其道德和价值观的方式进行挣扎。她说,今年零售商需要对顾客保持谨慎’的价值,特别是一年后几家时装零售商倒闭。

超干 板room 朱利安·邓克顿 冠状病毒病-19 大流行 封锁 詹姆斯·霍尔德
超干 was forced to shut its stores during 封锁s.

“Superdry应该专注于自己的可持续发展范围,以此与那些想要在购买衣服时做出明智选择的客户重新建立联系,” Erdly told 零售公报.

“在过去的几年中,就其对环境的影响以及在制造过程中产生的废物数量而言,快时尚和流行时尚总体上受到了广泛的审查。

“It would make sense that in order to move forward 超干 will want to connect with this conscious consumer and prove to them that they can offer great looking clothes that are made sustainably.”

Jacobs explained that 超干 had previously attempted to diversify its product range through sportswear and organic cotton items. 但是, was not alone in this 战略, and, with little else to differentiate the brand from its competitors, it’s unclear how 超干’s offering would stand out.

“The issue with 超干 appears to be one of brand perception, and who are the brand’s target market,” Jacobs said.

“Whether or not a brand ‘reset’ can boost its perception, or dilute it further, remains to be seen. 超干 appears to think of itself as a premium brand, which jars slightly with its customer experience and how it is actually perceived.

“Superdry既不便宜也不敏捷,无法与快速时尚竞争,也不足以与奢侈品竞争, and whilst the impact of the 大流行 has dealt the brand another blow, 超干 was struggling well before the virus struck, with four consecutive years of declining profits.”

While 超干 is known for its jackets and hoodies, over the years the public has seen it release additional ranges such as water bottles, pencil cases and watches. Arguably, its product diversification could be adversely affecting its business.

“Shoppers who enter a 超干 shop to buy a hoodie shouldn’t walk out with a pencil case,” Jacobs told 零售公报.

“产品多样化不应损害品牌的认知方式或有效交付其核心产品的购买方式。”

With new executives in place and its co-founder, 朱利安·邓克顿, at the helm permanently, 超干 may well be back in the spotlight this year. Dunkerton has laid out his plans, with a focus on more contemporary ranges and 可持续性.

The recent campaign launch with international football star Neymar to promote 超干’可持续的内衣系列建议朝着这些观念迈进,并试图吸引对运动感兴趣的年轻人群。

但是,’众所周知,在已经陷入困境的零售市场中,邓克顿(Dunkerton)肩负着重振品牌的重任。只有时间证明一切。

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